Tropical Ecology - Biotopes
Inside The Peruvian Jungle
Written by Sunday, 10 February 2002 00:00
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Diary of Visit
22.07.00: Rome (Fiumicino airport): Here we are, luckily, again ... while the air-conditioning is said to be "on duty". We're waiting to board our plane: Peru (passing from Madrid) is waiting for us. The most expensive, long, difficult (in term of climates and environments we're going to face: before getting into the jungle, a quick look to Andes has been scheduled), intriguing, terrifying, the most "everything" trip we've (Stefania and I) ever undertaken is on its way to begin.
During the flight: Can't refrain from thinking that, going as far back as I can remember, this is the first time no diving equipment, at all, is in our luggage.
10.30 p.m: (Italian time ... outside the plane the sun is shining!!!) we're flying over the endless Amazon jungle and, once more, we begin to fill out immigration forms to enter Peru. Then at 7.30 p.m. (local time) we land at Lima, Peruvian capital. We cross a messy, crowded, noisy city to go to our hotel in what was probably the smartest part of the city: San Isidro. An excellent Pisco sour (national cocktail) welcomes us and then ... God bless the jet-lag. "Good night!" ... see ya tomorrow.
28.07.00: We leave Lima (after the Andean Tour) by plane heading for Iquitos. Our Jungle dream is about to begin ...
29.07.00 (Iquitos): Yesterday evening we had a "folk" dinner; including an "ugly show" with some dancers, a girl and a snake. Among the most celebrated helpings: fried caiman and Arapaima soup (Arapaima - Locally known as Pirarucu and to scientist as Arapaima gigas - is a fish closely related to Arowanas, the biggest known freshwater fishes: he can reach a weight of about 300Kg/150 lbs!) Regrettably, afterwards, I had the worst stomach-ache I can remember ... This morning I'm again fit ‘n strong (almost!) as we go visiting the Belen local market, nothing really new, but it was a bit of a shock from seeing the alternative use of most aquarium fishes (Oscar, Pacu s and others): sold for food!!!
Jim Lovins nicknamed "Jungle Jim"; Senior Aquarist of St. Louis, U.S.A. will be the guide during our week in the jungle. He looks exactly the way an european expects an American fellow to look but, also, and more important, he seems to know pretty well what to do. My idea won't change during the trip: He's been a clever guide, allowing us a full enjoyment of the Peruvian Jungle!
30.07.00: Under a cloudy sky, scratched here and there by the brightest line of blue sky I've ever seen, we're on the move. Before we sail, a few words on the members of the group: Jungle Jim (the Boss, see above), Professor Dick (75 years old. Great expert of Apistogramma (dwarf cichlids) and plants), Senor Insecto (it stands for "Mr. Insect"; an entomologist, also from St. Louis Zoo, looking for the "oddest" stuff of the forest); Barter Bob (a real trekking lover and "extremely" well trained in bartering with natives; hence his nickname) and, to finish, Me (deeply involved in malawian cichlids) and Stefania (my better half): we happen to be there "for the sake of curiosity"; to say so! Quite an odd team that, in the end, has worked quite well.
After a five hour sail on Rio Amazonas, and a further stretch on Rio Orosa, at last, we go: Our main camp: "Madre Selva II" is in sight. The Amazon stretches around us.
We're on the way to begin. I, already, know time will move "quickly" but there's nothing I can do about it; then ...
We're on our way. I already know time will move "quickly" but there's nothing I can do about it; then ...
31.07.00: Day one on Rio Orosa begins. During yet passed night the "night float" has been an experience hard to forget: We sailed upstream on a dugout canoe (powered by a small outboard engine) then our return was, unti Madre Selva II, following the Rio Orosas slow, quiet stream.
Under a blanket of glittering stars, I got my first wild catfish, then classified as Hypoptopoma sp. Now only a few clouds stain the sunrise and I begin, little by little, to learn - at least the simplest - the secrets of the River: a row of small air bubbles coming to the surface from the bottom: possibly down there there's a swimming turtle; at night a lamp hits two shining green dots: a spider; some spider are as big as my hand! Two red spots: a caiman hunting in the ambush! We, last night, failed to catch a small caiman to use for taking pictures purposes ... All around: ink black night, silence, stars, mysterious cries from the dark. If I could only stop the time ...
Great days of "catches", mainly at Yanashi Lagoon (by the way pH 7.0!); this lagoon is part of the Rio Orosa body of water, then a cute "jungle trek" to get pictures: regrettably only insects were worthy of shooting! While resting on the boat, we took pics to fishes, turtles, snakes (among the latter, there was one fellow a bit upset, to say the least ...). The natives bring them to us for this purpose in buckets, bags ... even plastic envelopes ...
About the weather: not a nightmare - as expected - but not even a joke! Hot (above 30° C), high humidity, a lot of sweat. Immediately after the shower (always too short as to handle the water "shortage" on the boat) you have to pour on yourself a lot of insects repellent to fight mosquitoes ...
01.08.00: Beginning of August: 5 days to go! At night, another unbelievable "jungle trek" (sad to say my video recorder batteries went off at the very beginning! Too humid to work?): a lot of insects, really nice tarantulas (among them a big reddish one that natives, and our guides as well, are used to calling "pinto"), and a sloth that, helped by luck, I spotted with the lamp among the top of trees, plus birds, frogs and snakes. Things to complain about: hot, humid, tons of mosquitos. We then sail to Paucarillo, the innermost camp held by "Project Amazonas" and from there, regrettably, we'll begin to head back to Iquitos and to the very end of our dream.
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