Aquatic Life Freshwater
Written by Tuesday, 08 January 2002 01:00
Well Folks,
Here we go! After having heard me speak of my trips to Malawi, I think it's time for you to visit Malawi on your own. C'mon ... it is not that difficult! This is what, in my opinion, you need to do and know (or, at least, it's what I suggest to you!).
I went to Malawi and Tanzania in 1997 and Malawi (alone) in 1999. Do I have to add that I, of course, spent most of my time along the Lake? Many things are equal, with few small differences. No experience of any kind on Mozambique (third state facing the Lake). This is, from a general point of view, a quickly changing area, so beware.
The best period to go there is from the 2nd half of September to the 1st half of November. If You have the need to go there during the rain season, be prepared to fight with "monster-size" insects of different kinds (I've been told so!). Dry season is, also, the period of the clearest water possible in the Lake. Keep this in mind if, as I suspect, looking at cichlids in their real environment is your main aim.
First things first: You need to get there. I live in Rome, so my 1st need was to choose where (no direct connection from Italy) to arrive at my target destination. The best flight I found (used in both trips) has been the connection Rome/London/Lilongwe (Malawi Capital) run by British Airway, and to leave from Gatwick Airport. Another suggested option is KLM passing from Amsterdam. BA proved itself a bit cheaper.
A tourist visa is requested to enter both Malawi and Tanzania: I got the one to Tanzania at their own embassy in Rome, while I had to send my passport to Brussels, Belgium, which is, by the way, the Malawian embassy closest to Rome. Pay attention: getting that Visa is REALLY a time consuming job, so get ready well in advance of scheduled departure. No further suggestions, simply check carefully what's going on where you happen to live.
Medical requirements: The only compulsory vaccination is Yellow Fever when going to Tanzania. Any way, some extra precautions are worth taking. To stay on the safe side, I undertook vaccinations for:
- Hepatitis (A/B),
- Polio,
- Rage,
- Tetanus,
- Diphtheria.
Almost all were suggested; while, of course, malaria prevention drugs (two different ones) were taken during all the time of the visit. Be advised you need to get those drugs (against malaria) in advance of the trip's beginning and finish WAY later your return. Vaccinations have to be taken in advance. CHECK IT! Anyway, the best thing to do is to refer to your doctor and fully explain to him where you are going. My only suggestion on the matter is to drink ONLY bottled (mineral) water and refrain from eating raw vegetables and/or fruit unless you're absolutely sure (which is never!) of where this food is coming from. In the age of the British Empire, they used to say, when referring to food in Africa: "Cook it, peel it, boil it ... or forget it!". All in all, this is still true!
You will need a guide: a fellow who really knows African paths, roads, the Lake (of course!), native habits, and so on. It's difficult to give REAL suggestions: it depends on what kind of trip you're looking for: Malawi offers accomodations ranging from luxury to "common ones" ... keep in mind that luxury resort are likely to consider all of your catching apparels and fish needs as, at the least, odd and this could bring you (and them) to some misunderstandings. Imagine going back/forth carrying buckets full of water in a five stars resort! Furthermore, when I travel, I prefer something a bit more "close" to native habits and standard of life. To me, travelling is, also, trying to get how natives carry on. Expect things to be a bit "harder" in Tanzania and possibly (never been there yet) in Mocambique.
Where are you going then? To the, probably, warmest part of Africa!!! Whose inhabitants are friendly, well mannered, and nice to live with. Of course, there are some things different from, say, Europe, so be prepared for things such as the lack of electricity all along most of the Tanzanian coast (I visited the stretch of coast from Mbamba Bay to Liuli), and almost the same is found on the opposite Malawian coast (surrounding of Nkata Bay). The situation is slightly different when going south to the Cape MacLear and Monkey Bay area. No electricity, either, at the Liwonde National Park (along the Shire river, flowing from Lake Malawi to Zambesi River). Of course, no electricity also means no faxes, computer, phones, and so on, but this is the real fun, isn't it?
Luggage: Carefully plan your luggage, and always remember that even the simplest spare part (such as a battery for your lamp) could be hard to find, not to mention EXPENSIVE, so get plenty of spare parts. Choose only light items suited for "hard-core" living ... they will serve you better. You need not bring there your "battle dress" (remember those days when you're in the army?) but your tuxedo jacket won't help a lot either!
Packing Needs
Clothes: shirt long/short sleeves, trousers long/short, underwear (loose is better), a jacket (not that heavy), tennis shoes (hiking ones are in need only if you plan long walks/climbs), beach shoes, sunglasses, hats (two, just in case one is lost!), and all toiletry items according to your needs. A rain jacket is needed if you go there in the rain season which, by the way, they say is a must to see (and take pics of) flourishing orchids (11 genuses are endemic to the Malawi area) and chameleons, though I saw some in Tanzania during the dry season.
Photography: camera, lenses (300 mm is the absolute minimal size to get, at the least, nice photos at game parks, i.e.: Liwonde N.P.), films (no colour slides at all available there; films, if found, are expensive). Camcorders can suffer from the lack of electric supply (no recharge), and finally, do not forget a good pair of lightweight binoculars, and you're done. Suggestion: DO pack everything carefully against dust.
Medications: check with your doctor! But never forget an insect repellent lotion and a sun protective cream (it takes you minutes to turn from suntanned to sunburn!) Make your guide aware, well in advance, of possible allergies, if you're vegetarian or have specific dietary needs, and so on ...
Diving: wetsuit (trust me!), mask, fins, snorkel, weightbelt (no weight), regulators (get a spare one!) and buoyancy jacket. All first class and fully checked right before departure. Chances are, the nearest facility to service these items is South Africa. If you happen to only go snorkelling, a mask, snorlkel, fins and a t-shirt is all you need. DO NOT worry: most of cichlid life occurs in the first 5 meters of depth.
Warning: always double check where you go snorkelling/diving: hippos and crocodiles share the same environment. As a general rule, stay away from swamp areas, flat stones soaking into water and sandy shores close to planted areas. A further safety precaution is checking with local fishermen, asking what they met in the previous days.
Local currency: Kwatcha in Malawi, and Shilling in Tanzania. Small dollar notes are accepted almost everywhere. Credit cards and Traveler Cheques are almost unknown (except, possibly, in Lilongwe).
Places worth visiting
I would recommend the following places:
If you are going north do not miss visiting, among other places, Kasito Lodge and surrounding mountains (Chikangawa area: but I'm not sure it is written correctly), as well as the game parks in the area which we missed in 1997 due to circumstances beyond our control: not so uncommon in Africa! According to the period, it can possibly be a bit cold, since some places are high: check before going.
When at the lake, go to dive/snorkel at: Higga Reef (actually only dive: it's deep), Hongi Island, Klaus Rock, and Ngkuyo Island on the Tanzanian coast, to only name a few. Chikale Beach (close to Nkata Bay) is a "must-see" place on the Malawian side (middle coast of the lake).
If you are going south the Liwonde National park is a must. Sleep a night there and enjoy the sunrise on the river: you'll never forget it! Again, at the lake, do not miss Otter point, Mumbo Island, both Thumbi Island (West & East) and Zimbawe Rock (again only to dive: it's deep). Of course, there are a lot of other places waiting for you!
Just choose according to your wishes/needs and consider a 2 weeks period to be the absolute minimum time to stay.
What to buy: wood items (carved masks, chairs, small furniture, small carved animals, toys), cotton items, necklaces and bracelets. All are cheap items, but many of them are of remarkable craftmanship.
What you'll get for free is a friendly, warm, relationship with natives, provided you deal with them respectfully. You'll also get sunsets that will make you heart bleed (during a rain evening, once at home!) and, finally, smells, colours, and sounds that will make you aware that you, finally, really are in the warmest heart of Africa. Give Lake Malawi a try, you'll not be disappointed! These are my suggestions (simply a path, according to what I've seen) and I'll finish these notes by suggesting that you get a copy of "Lonely Planet - Tourist Guide" on Malawi, Zambia, Mozambique. It is well written, clear, simple, and faithful to what I found there. It will make your planning a lot easier. Of course, there is a lot more to say on the trip, as well as a lot more to visit (and I regret all I've missed). Please, do feel free to This e-mail address is being protected from spambots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it me if in need.
The story of a Letter
When I got to Lake Malawi for the first time (back then in October 1997) it took me a bit of time to get used to local habits: food and drinks, weather, sightseeing, names and so on ...
But a name I immediately got aware of was Jannadi’s. He's a nice, warm-hearted local fellow who is the chief of Erling's local diving crew. I used to rely on him for a lot of things: loading the boats to go for diving, taking care of caught fishes, being my divemate, a fisherman and many more. I've had great fun because of his loyal support and help. Our relationship came to a break with the end of our trip.
Returning to the Lake in 1999 it was a great surprise to meet him again (still working with Erling). We got along very well again and I had the chance to discover and appreciate the man and his well mannered, gentle character. Being a diving instructor myself, I immediately had to admit he's a great diver: well skilled, knowing the lake as well as I know my garden, and able to get the best from his (not so modern) equipment.
To my surprise, a few days before my second departure he came to me with a question related to diving. "Well" he said "You know I'm a good diver, however, having a diving certificate from an European instructor would dramatically increase my "value" as I diver in the local work market, hence I ask you if you would agree in sending me a diving certificate once you get cak home. I'll pay You for that ..."
After having, of course, politely refused his payment I promised to send him a diving certificate (I've seen him at work many times and he fully deserved one). Once at home I registered him as a certified diver to the agency I teach for and send him his own certificate by mail. I prepared an envelope "to Jannadi so'n so P.O. Box THAT ONE Malawi - Central Africa" and put myself in the process of a really looooooong wait. Time moves quite differently there, in Africa ...
After a wait of over three months I started to suspect something has gone wrong and to feel a bit sorrow. Then one day I found, at home, a letter from Africa ... BINGO! It was from Jannadi thanking me for the certificate I sent him, that allowed him to get a job as a diver for a company building a bridge on the Shire River. This meant for him more money and a slightly better life. To me it was simply a matter of keeping a promise but that promise (there, in the "Land of Cichlids") did far more than any cichlids caught, taken home, kept and spawned. It meant to me that I had given to a fellow, who struggled to his very best to make my stay in Africa as enjoyable as possible, a real help and a chance to improve his life. I'll save his letter as one of my best ever souvenirs from Africa ...
| < Prev | Next > |
|---|